Pauline is now on her way to Temple 24...midway there, to be exact. It's a two-day trip, 78 kilometers, and she'll enter Kochi prefecture at the end of this mini-journey.
Wednesday, September 29, 2004
Sunday, September 26, 2004
Shikoku Pilgrimmage 2
Pauline is still in Tokushima Prefecture, and will be there for 2-3 more days. She's left Temple 19, and is on the way to 20. So far, she's walked an average of 30 km a day.
Tuesday, September 21, 2004
Shikoku Pilgrimmage 1
Pauline started the pilgrimmage around the island of Shikoku today. She has gotten to Temple 4, and will stop for the day at Temple 5. All-in-all, about 20 kilometers...not bad for a first day.
Saturday, September 18, 2004
Being a pilgrim
Thanks to everyone for their well wishes! Am hoping I will be able to finish the pilgrimage, trying to be realistic. The weather here in Japan has not been helping, it's really hot and humid here, feels like being in a sauna outside. I didn't realise it was still so hot here despite it being autumn so have had to repack my backpack, got rid of some cold weather gear that I had bought in Korea. Yesterday I went to book my airline ticket back home and estimated 40 days to complete the pilgrimage. After reading some accounts on the internet and also since I will be carrying a tent and sleeping bag around (most ppl who do the pilgrimage don't carry that much stuff, they usually stay in inns and hotels at night) I think I may have under-estimated the time it will take to finish. I don't want to be rushing from temple to temple and with the heat and weight of my backpack...I am thinking 40 days is not enough. Added to that, my level of fitness is definitely not what it used to be, especially after sitting in a jeep in Mongolia 10 days in a row...! I am going to call the travel agent and change my airline ticket today, hoping 45 days is being more realistic. It's so hard having a flight deadline.
It was difficult saying goodbye to Fiona yesterday. She flew on the next available flight back to Canada, so it was an abrupt departure. It's strange to be doing the pilgrimage alone, we had done so much planning for it together and had been looking forward to it. It was Fiona's idea for it from the beginning so it's really sad that she couldn't complete it. She has to go back to be with her family though. So Fiona, if you are reading this - thank you so much, we did an awesome trip, I am still trying to digest how much we did in all those countries. Hope everything goes well with your godfather.
So I am leaving on Monday to go to Wakayama. Pilgrims usually begin their pilgrimage there. I have to buy my henro (pilgrim) gear, which includes a walking stick, hat and jacket to identify that I am a pilgrim. I will be carrying a book as well that will contain a stamp from each temple. As luck would have it, my favourite teacher while I was teaching here retired back to Shikoku and lives near the first temple. So I am staying with her for the first night - thanks Ms. Yamazato!
I'm not going to be contactable while I am walking since I don't have a mobile phone here anymore. I guess it's a worrying thought since no-one will know how I am doing while I walk. Dwayne has been kind enough to update this blog on where I am in my pilgrimage. So I am going to call Dwayne every few days to tell him I am still alive :)
So if all goes well, in about 40 or so days, I will be back online having finished the pilgrimage! I am really excited about starting it. Until then, take care!
9.19am Sat 18 Sep, 2004. Dwayne's place, Japan
It was difficult saying goodbye to Fiona yesterday. She flew on the next available flight back to Canada, so it was an abrupt departure. It's strange to be doing the pilgrimage alone, we had done so much planning for it together and had been looking forward to it. It was Fiona's idea for it from the beginning so it's really sad that she couldn't complete it. She has to go back to be with her family though. So Fiona, if you are reading this - thank you so much, we did an awesome trip, I am still trying to digest how much we did in all those countries. Hope everything goes well with your godfather.
So I am leaving on Monday to go to Wakayama. Pilgrims usually begin their pilgrimage there. I have to buy my henro (pilgrim) gear, which includes a walking stick, hat and jacket to identify that I am a pilgrim. I will be carrying a book as well that will contain a stamp from each temple. As luck would have it, my favourite teacher while I was teaching here retired back to Shikoku and lives near the first temple. So I am staying with her for the first night - thanks Ms. Yamazato!
I'm not going to be contactable while I am walking since I don't have a mobile phone here anymore. I guess it's a worrying thought since no-one will know how I am doing while I walk. Dwayne has been kind enough to update this blog on where I am in my pilgrimage. So I am going to call Dwayne every few days to tell him I am still alive :)
So if all goes well, in about 40 or so days, I will be back online having finished the pilgrimage! I am really excited about starting it. Until then, take care!
9.19am Sat 18 Sep, 2004. Dwayne's place, Japan
Friday, September 17, 2004
A Nomadic Story Continued
Finally back in Japan! I walked out of the plane and just felt like I was finally back home. Sad that the incredible trip ended but really happy that I managed to do so much. It was the craziest, dirtiest, most interesting and tiring trip that I have ever done!! Oh the stories, the memories, all the photos that we took. Would have been a few thousand photos between me and Fi - at least! Not to mention all the videos... we just looked through my Mongolian videos today and nearly expired laughing so hard.
So some brief excerpts from my travel journal on the Mongolian road trip -
Day 1 - Thurs Sep 2, 2004. 8.36pm
I am sitting in the big tent that has been set up, vast plains abound! The sun is setting, the horizon looks awesome. The emptiness is quite mesmerising.
Day 2 - Friday 8.53pm
I am sitting at the Byanzag before a beautiful sunset, the cloud has formed an eagle and it looks as though a flaming eagle is about to set upon a group of gers. We have set camp at an amazing place where Zag trees take a thousand years to grow, almost the only vegetation to grow in this harsh, dry landscape. We went for an hour long camel ride around the Byanzag and also to the ruins where dinosaur bones were found. The camel ride was a lot of fun, mine was a female who seemed to go at a perpetual trot as I bounced up and down, trying to take pictures.
Day 3 - Sat, 7.34pm
In the middle of the Gobi desert. What are the chances that I am sitting here watching rainfall in the far distance? This place is amazing. Rather menacing clouds obscure the sun but the sun's rays are shining valiantly through. This morning we drove to the flaming cliffs, it was peaceful there until I had to pee. We then drove to the National Park called Yollym Am - Vulture's Mouth. We saw a nice meandering stream going through the valley; goats, horses, camels. Had an awful germ-infested lunch at a nomad family's ger - all through the walk I didn't know whether I wanted to puke or go to the toilet!
The driver and our guide, Uyanga are really friendly. I still miss Tibet but I can appreciate Mongolia for what it is.
Day 4 - Sun, 7.52pm
In a bad sandstorm at the moment! It's been an exciting day. We were climbing the Khongor sand dunes, an hour back later and we would have been caught in this sand storm!! The sand dunes were beautiful, climbed 2 peaks, the first of which I was pretty much on my hands and knees bc the slope was so steep! Just bad navigational judgement on my part though that was certainly an experience, wtih sand filling up my boots as I valiantly clawed my way up the steepest part. It was great getting to the peak and seeing all the sand dunes undulating across the horizon. I sat there for a while just taking it all in; the view, the heat, just the experience of sitting on a sand dune at the Gobi Desert.
We were there from 4-6pm and after we drove a little way to pitch our tents amongst the sandy desert. The wind was palpable but obviously not in full force so we were able to pitch both tents and have time left to boil water for afternoon tea. It was as we were sitting in Uyanga's tent that the wind picked up and blew at full force! Kym (the other girl on the trip with us) and I scrambled to zip up the tent flaps whilst simultaneously holding the walls up against the wind. It was a losing battle. Before long we heard Uyanga's voice outside the tent saying, "Come on girls, we're going to a ger." What followed was mad scrambling for our belongings during a severe sand storm that obscured my vision. The winds were so strong I could barely stand upright.
Certainly experienced all 4 seasons today in the desert, even saw a rainbow - the 2nd one on this trip!
Day 5, Mon 4.51pm
Not far out of the sand dunes this morning and our jeep got stuck in a ditch! It took our combined shrubbery-gathering skills and over an hour before we were free of the mud. The poor thousand-year old shrubs...though we had to be freed!
Day 6. Tues, 9.46am
Slept in a hotel last night, no hot water though unfortunately, so a cold hair-wash in a sink.
7.43pm - Here we are at Orkhon Waterfall and Gorge, it was really beautiful when we hiked it, pre-tourist horde. Nice to see water and vegetation again after the desert. In a beautiful ger right now as Uyanga prepares dinner, the days seem to have sped by.
Getting v. tired of sitting in a jeep esp. since I am a lot more wary of the driver, who stroked my hand twice and then told me he loved me. Ugh! How random! All I could think of was, why is it always the old gross ones who find me attractive?
Day 7. Wed, 11.32am
Our jeep is stuck in a river. We've been stuck here for abt an hour, currently awaiting the cavalry who is pulling apart a ger. Water level has been inexplicably rising, esp. in the back, may well be getting the floor wet. It's been an adventurous trip - we've been stuck in mud, caught in a sandstorm and now our jeep is drowning in the driver. At least the scenery is beautiful, sun is shining. We look like refugees w/all our luggage on one side of the riverbank, sitting on our mattresses, waiting for rescue.
9.36pm -
Well after 4 tries by a truck, our jeep was finally pulled out of the river. It was a long 4 hr journey to Tsetserleg though, sitting in the middle along a v.bumpy road was far fr pleasant. Addedto that, a lack of sleep last night. Ugh...long and strange story. Last nite as I was abt to fall asleep, I felt my bed move a few times. In my sleepy state I thought perhaps there was smthg under my bed. I stretched out in my sleepg bag into a more comfortable position when suddenly smthg grabbed my foot! I was freaked out, my first thought being a monster let loose. I surreptitiously reached over to my backpack and grabbed my torch. I realised it was the driver since his bed is at the foot of mine. It was a long and sleepless nite as I fell asleep fitfully whilst holding onto my torch... as a weapon I guess. I also didnt stretch out fully the entire nite lest he reach over and grab me again.
Day 8, Thurs 4.20pm
Just came down from climbing the Khorgo Volcano.
Day 9, Fri 12.06pm
We have left White Lake, it was beautiful there. We stayed in a ger overlooking the lake. Went for a 2hr horse-ride up and down hills. I sat on a gorgeous black horse that was soo lazy! She wouldn't move faster than a trot though later I found it was a good thing since, on our way back, the horse guide forced my lazy horse into a fast canter and I thought my internal organs were going to be jarred out through my mouth!
Driver has been a real dick- been ignoring him the past few days. Last night I built a veritable fortress of my clothes and bags against the bed posts closest to his bed. He has been driving like a maniac across pot-hole filled roads, been short-tempered and basically an ass.
Day 10, Sat 10pm
We drove all day and got back to UB at 4pm. We paid for our tour and told the guesthouse abt the driver's behaviour. They were understandably shocked.
The trip was good, I'm glad I did it bc some of the sights were amazing, def. not the same level of awe as in Tibet but glad it was done. A little tired and run-down right now.
So I'm going to start the pilgrimage next Monday.
I feel like all that has happened during my stay in Japan and on this trip, has led me to this point where I am mentally prepared to do the pilgrimage. I'm aware of how difficult this is going to be but I also have this deep-seated belief that I was meant to do this. I feel that this will be a true test of my character, of my ability to finish what I have started. I need this time alone to just contemplate all I have done and what my next steps will be back home in Australia. What better way to ponder than on your feet, as a pilgrim, walking a path that other pilgrims have followed for a thousand years, pondering the same questions? It's getting late here in Japan, I'm sounding very abstract and probably not making much sense.
To all those who are worried, I will be fine. Whatever is meant to happen, will happen - so there is no point in feeling trepidation for the unknown. I'll see what I can do about finding internet access on the pilgrimage path, if not, will update in abt 5-6 week's time.
Fri 17 Sep, 2004. 12.14am - Kuz's place, Japan.
So some brief excerpts from my travel journal on the Mongolian road trip -
Day 1 - Thurs Sep 2, 2004. 8.36pm
I am sitting in the big tent that has been set up, vast plains abound! The sun is setting, the horizon looks awesome. The emptiness is quite mesmerising.
Day 2 - Friday 8.53pm
I am sitting at the Byanzag before a beautiful sunset, the cloud has formed an eagle and it looks as though a flaming eagle is about to set upon a group of gers. We have set camp at an amazing place where Zag trees take a thousand years to grow, almost the only vegetation to grow in this harsh, dry landscape. We went for an hour long camel ride around the Byanzag and also to the ruins where dinosaur bones were found. The camel ride was a lot of fun, mine was a female who seemed to go at a perpetual trot as I bounced up and down, trying to take pictures.
Day 3 - Sat, 7.34pm
In the middle of the Gobi desert. What are the chances that I am sitting here watching rainfall in the far distance? This place is amazing. Rather menacing clouds obscure the sun but the sun's rays are shining valiantly through. This morning we drove to the flaming cliffs, it was peaceful there until I had to pee. We then drove to the National Park called Yollym Am - Vulture's Mouth. We saw a nice meandering stream going through the valley; goats, horses, camels. Had an awful germ-infested lunch at a nomad family's ger - all through the walk I didn't know whether I wanted to puke or go to the toilet!
The driver and our guide, Uyanga are really friendly. I still miss Tibet but I can appreciate Mongolia for what it is.
Day 4 - Sun, 7.52pm
In a bad sandstorm at the moment! It's been an exciting day. We were climbing the Khongor sand dunes, an hour back later and we would have been caught in this sand storm!! The sand dunes were beautiful, climbed 2 peaks, the first of which I was pretty much on my hands and knees bc the slope was so steep! Just bad navigational judgement on my part though that was certainly an experience, wtih sand filling up my boots as I valiantly clawed my way up the steepest part. It was great getting to the peak and seeing all the sand dunes undulating across the horizon. I sat there for a while just taking it all in; the view, the heat, just the experience of sitting on a sand dune at the Gobi Desert.
We were there from 4-6pm and after we drove a little way to pitch our tents amongst the sandy desert. The wind was palpable but obviously not in full force so we were able to pitch both tents and have time left to boil water for afternoon tea. It was as we were sitting in Uyanga's tent that the wind picked up and blew at full force! Kym (the other girl on the trip with us) and I scrambled to zip up the tent flaps whilst simultaneously holding the walls up against the wind. It was a losing battle. Before long we heard Uyanga's voice outside the tent saying, "Come on girls, we're going to a ger." What followed was mad scrambling for our belongings during a severe sand storm that obscured my vision. The winds were so strong I could barely stand upright.
Certainly experienced all 4 seasons today in the desert, even saw a rainbow - the 2nd one on this trip!
Day 5, Mon 4.51pm
Not far out of the sand dunes this morning and our jeep got stuck in a ditch! It took our combined shrubbery-gathering skills and over an hour before we were free of the mud. The poor thousand-year old shrubs...though we had to be freed!
Day 6. Tues, 9.46am
Slept in a hotel last night, no hot water though unfortunately, so a cold hair-wash in a sink.
7.43pm - Here we are at Orkhon Waterfall and Gorge, it was really beautiful when we hiked it, pre-tourist horde. Nice to see water and vegetation again after the desert. In a beautiful ger right now as Uyanga prepares dinner, the days seem to have sped by.
Getting v. tired of sitting in a jeep esp. since I am a lot more wary of the driver, who stroked my hand twice and then told me he loved me. Ugh! How random! All I could think of was, why is it always the old gross ones who find me attractive?
Day 7. Wed, 11.32am
Our jeep is stuck in a river. We've been stuck here for abt an hour, currently awaiting the cavalry who is pulling apart a ger. Water level has been inexplicably rising, esp. in the back, may well be getting the floor wet. It's been an adventurous trip - we've been stuck in mud, caught in a sandstorm and now our jeep is drowning in the driver. At least the scenery is beautiful, sun is shining. We look like refugees w/all our luggage on one side of the riverbank, sitting on our mattresses, waiting for rescue.
9.36pm -
Well after 4 tries by a truck, our jeep was finally pulled out of the river. It was a long 4 hr journey to Tsetserleg though, sitting in the middle along a v.bumpy road was far fr pleasant. Addedto that, a lack of sleep last night. Ugh...long and strange story. Last nite as I was abt to fall asleep, I felt my bed move a few times. In my sleepy state I thought perhaps there was smthg under my bed. I stretched out in my sleepg bag into a more comfortable position when suddenly smthg grabbed my foot! I was freaked out, my first thought being a monster let loose. I surreptitiously reached over to my backpack and grabbed my torch. I realised it was the driver since his bed is at the foot of mine. It was a long and sleepless nite as I fell asleep fitfully whilst holding onto my torch... as a weapon I guess. I also didnt stretch out fully the entire nite lest he reach over and grab me again.
Day 8, Thurs 4.20pm
Just came down from climbing the Khorgo Volcano.
Day 9, Fri 12.06pm
We have left White Lake, it was beautiful there. We stayed in a ger overlooking the lake. Went for a 2hr horse-ride up and down hills. I sat on a gorgeous black horse that was soo lazy! She wouldn't move faster than a trot though later I found it was a good thing since, on our way back, the horse guide forced my lazy horse into a fast canter and I thought my internal organs were going to be jarred out through my mouth!
Driver has been a real dick- been ignoring him the past few days. Last night I built a veritable fortress of my clothes and bags against the bed posts closest to his bed. He has been driving like a maniac across pot-hole filled roads, been short-tempered and basically an ass.
Day 10, Sat 10pm
We drove all day and got back to UB at 4pm. We paid for our tour and told the guesthouse abt the driver's behaviour. They were understandably shocked.
The trip was good, I'm glad I did it bc some of the sights were amazing, def. not the same level of awe as in Tibet but glad it was done. A little tired and run-down right now.
So I'm going to start the pilgrimage next Monday.
I feel like all that has happened during my stay in Japan and on this trip, has led me to this point where I am mentally prepared to do the pilgrimage. I'm aware of how difficult this is going to be but I also have this deep-seated belief that I was meant to do this. I feel that this will be a true test of my character, of my ability to finish what I have started. I need this time alone to just contemplate all I have done and what my next steps will be back home in Australia. What better way to ponder than on your feet, as a pilgrim, walking a path that other pilgrims have followed for a thousand years, pondering the same questions? It's getting late here in Japan, I'm sounding very abstract and probably not making much sense.
To all those who are worried, I will be fine. Whatever is meant to happen, will happen - so there is no point in feeling trepidation for the unknown. I'll see what I can do about finding internet access on the pilgrimage path, if not, will update in abt 5-6 week's time.
Fri 17 Sep, 2004. 12.14am - Kuz's place, Japan.
Tuesday, September 14, 2004
Shopaholics Anonymous
Wow the last 2 days here in Korea has been consumed with shopping and eating. I can't believe how much Fiona and I shopped. Literally we did 10 hours non-stop and managed to each blow a grand in one day! It's been crazy but definitely fruitful shopping, too bad for me I can't wear any of the autumn clothes for another 6 months when I get back to Aus, being practical was never one of my strong points.
I know I have a lot to write about regarding Mongolia but there is so much to write that these half hour spells at the internet cafe won't be able to cover it. I am heading back to Japan on thursday though, so will be able to update at leisure then.
Everything is going great, am really churning up the Korean economy.
8.27pm Tues Sep 14, 2004. Seoul, Korea
I know I have a lot to write about regarding Mongolia but there is so much to write that these half hour spells at the internet cafe won't be able to cover it. I am heading back to Japan on thursday though, so will be able to update at leisure then.
Everything is going great, am really churning up the Korean economy.
8.27pm Tues Sep 14, 2004. Seoul, Korea
Sunday, September 12, 2004
Kimchi ... and going solo
Am in Seoul right now - ahhh civilisation....loving it here - the electricity, plumbing (actually indoors!), running water! really missed these necessities!
We found a semi-love hotel to stay in that is pretty reasonable, in a great location. It's been great being reacquainted with delicious food (no more mutton, thank god!), shopping, oh the shopping!
So it's only been a few hours here but already blew a wad of money, I guess infrastructure and customer service comes at a price. Anyway, I am long overdue for a spending spree so it's all good.
The big news is...Fiona is flying back to Canada early and won't be doing the Buddhist Pilgrimage anymore. I've decided to continue doing it on my own so whilst it is kinda scary, I am really looking forward to it still, actually even more so bc it will be a true test of my character, faith and willpower. So will be walking the Shikoku island - a distance of 1400km, up and down mountains to get to 88 temples and camping at nights on my own. It will be tough, I am being realistic about it, but it will be an incredible life-changing experience.
Loving Seoul right now. We are just focused on enjoying the food and shopping, it will be a chill 5 days or so before returning to Japan.
Sun Sep 12, 2004. 5.29pm Seoul, Korea
We found a semi-love hotel to stay in that is pretty reasonable, in a great location. It's been great being reacquainted with delicious food (no more mutton, thank god!), shopping, oh the shopping!
So it's only been a few hours here but already blew a wad of money, I guess infrastructure and customer service comes at a price. Anyway, I am long overdue for a spending spree so it's all good.
The big news is...Fiona is flying back to Canada early and won't be doing the Buddhist Pilgrimage anymore. I've decided to continue doing it on my own so whilst it is kinda scary, I am really looking forward to it still, actually even more so bc it will be a true test of my character, faith and willpower. So will be walking the Shikoku island - a distance of 1400km, up and down mountains to get to 88 temples and camping at nights on my own. It will be tough, I am being realistic about it, but it will be an incredible life-changing experience.
Loving Seoul right now. We are just focused on enjoying the food and shopping, it will be a chill 5 days or so before returning to Japan.
Sun Sep 12, 2004. 5.29pm Seoul, Korea
Saturday, September 11, 2004
A 10 day Nomadic Existence
Just came back from traveling around Mongolia for 10 days, we packed so much into 10 days that even our guide told us she has never done so much. It was pretty incredible, visited the Gobi desert and pitched our tents on the Mongolian steppes - vast open plains as far as the eye can see with no obstructions except maybe a few gers in the distance. We pitched tents for the first 4 nights but as we travelled further north it got steadily colder, so the rest of the time we stayed in gers - now that was a great experience. Also saw a beautiful lake, climbed a volcano, rolled around on sand dunes and even walked (ok crawled) to the peak of a few. My dirt record so far is 5 days without a shower :)
There is so much to write about but right now I am extremely exhausted and hungry, we just got back. One of the more crazy things that happened was our driver developed a crush on me during the trip, it was so gross. He stroked my hand twice while driving, felt the need to tell me he loved me AND THEN, during one of the nights we all shared a ger, he took the bed at the foot of mine and in the middle of the night, grabbed my foot. ICK ICK ICK!!! When I rejected him, he proceeded to be in a shitty mood for the remainder of our trip and basically drove like a reckless maniac. That was a crazy experience.
Anyway, will write more later, my growling stomach requires food!
Oh, heading to Korea tomorrow and staying for 5 days after which going back to Japan.
Sep 11, 2004. 7.05pm Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia
There is so much to write about but right now I am extremely exhausted and hungry, we just got back. One of the more crazy things that happened was our driver developed a crush on me during the trip, it was so gross. He stroked my hand twice while driving, felt the need to tell me he loved me AND THEN, during one of the nights we all shared a ger, he took the bed at the foot of mine and in the middle of the night, grabbed my foot. ICK ICK ICK!!! When I rejected him, he proceeded to be in a shitty mood for the remainder of our trip and basically drove like a reckless maniac. That was a crazy experience.
Anyway, will write more later, my growling stomach requires food!
Oh, heading to Korea tomorrow and staying for 5 days after which going back to Japan.
Sep 11, 2004. 7.05pm Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia
Wednesday, September 01, 2004
Tearful Good-bye to Tibet
Literally. I have never cried leaving a hotel before, it's a crazy tale and even Fiona and I find it quite amusing though the sadness from leaving Tibet is very real.
Our final day in Lhasa at the Gorkha Hotel was incredibly sad. The weather matched our mood, wet and dreary. I came down for breakfast to our regular breakfast nook, looked about the beautiful restaurant and felt very depressed. The night before Karma came by to visit us in our rooms to say good-bye and to gossip about what we did that day. He is so amazing. We were so subdued for breakfast that morning. Our cute restaurant manager who has the most beautiful smile (and who I have a crush on) came by for our usual small talk, he told us the staff were sad to see us go.
That morning, Karma invited us up to see his private suites, we walked about as he spoke of the improvements he was making to the hotel (the hotel only opened 2 months ago, it is absolutely beautiful and the food at the restaurant is amazing - we ate there for all our meals, the chef came from a 5 star hotel in Nepal).
The rest of the day sped by, we had a final lunch and Fiona left to get our bags. I saw the porter bringing our bags down and the stark reality of leaving such an incredible hotel and city really hit me. We sat down on a bench overlooking the courtyard and Fiona started crying. Even writing about this last day now is bringing tears to my eyes. I have never felt such incredible comfort and ease living in a hotel, the owner and staff literally welcomed us like family. Lhasa city itself is gorgeous, I really loved it there. The last few days were idyllic, I woke up each morning in a beautiful Tibetan-designed room, waltzed downstairs for a yummy breakfast as I contemplated what to do that day. Do I go for a massage, go around the Barkor circuit deciding what to buy, roam around the city experiencing the friendliness and vibrancy? I would invariably find something new to buy and meet some old Tibetan stallkeeper who I would sit and chat with for a while as we swapped life stories. There were 2 old stallkeepers that I actually went back to for quick chats during my last few days there, they were so welcoming and warm, when I caught a cold the old lady was worried for me. The ppl there are beautiful and I was so lucky I was able to communicate with them.
After roaming about, I would go back to the Gorkha for lunch. Have more chats with the cute restaurant manager, it felt like I had to compete with him on who could smile the biggest, he really did have a beautiful smile. What I miss the most though is seeing Karma's face as I walked through the foyer of the hotel, he would have this wide grin, greet me and ask me what I did, what I bought, sit there at the restaurant chatting to me as I ate lunch. On the plane ride out of Lhasa his face would intermittently surface in my mind and I would feel like crying all over again.
So back to our final hour there, after trying to compose ourselves since I had started crying too, we walked out into the foyer and saw Karma waiting there for us. Karma had these white scarves that he placed over our heads to keep us safe on our travels. So much for composing ourselves, I just began crying like a baby. Thinking about it now, it was quite funny how emotional we got. Karma was hugging us good-bye, making us promise to email him so he would know we got to Mongolia safely. I have never cried so much, not even leaving Australia or Japan! I guess knowing that I would probably not be returning anytime soon was a huge contributing factor.
Lhasa is definitely my favourite city of all time. We arrived into Mongolia and it just doesn't feel right. I want to go back to a place that welcomes me. Where I can discover new things about the city each time I go out the door. Where I can return and feel like it's home.
I am grateful that I experienced it though. Tibet is wonderful and I am grateful for all these priceless memories. It's a pity Mongolia was next on the itinerary, there is no way it can compete. We walked into our guesthouse today in Ulaan Bataar and saw our room, it doesn't feel right. The capital of Mongolia itself is a huge disappointment, quite ugly as it tries to westernise, there is no culture here. We embark on a 10 day tour around Mongolia tomorrow, covering the Gobi desert, a volcano, sand dunes and lots of other wonderful sites. I hope it takes my mind off leaving Tibet. We have decided to only stay a few days in the city itself and then head on to Korea. I can't believe what a heavy influence Korea has in this city!
Since leaving Tibet I have begun thinking of returning back home to Australia. I realise how important it is to have friends and family nearby. We have decided to cut our stay in Mongolia short, we are covering the main sites but won't be spending as much time as originally planned. I am looking forward to going back to Japan and completing the pilgrimage and then returning home to Australia and beginning a new life there. Tibet has put things into perspective for me.
4.19pm, Wed Sep 1st, 2004. Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia.
Our final day in Lhasa at the Gorkha Hotel was incredibly sad. The weather matched our mood, wet and dreary. I came down for breakfast to our regular breakfast nook, looked about the beautiful restaurant and felt very depressed. The night before Karma came by to visit us in our rooms to say good-bye and to gossip about what we did that day. He is so amazing. We were so subdued for breakfast that morning. Our cute restaurant manager who has the most beautiful smile (and who I have a crush on) came by for our usual small talk, he told us the staff were sad to see us go.
That morning, Karma invited us up to see his private suites, we walked about as he spoke of the improvements he was making to the hotel (the hotel only opened 2 months ago, it is absolutely beautiful and the food at the restaurant is amazing - we ate there for all our meals, the chef came from a 5 star hotel in Nepal).
The rest of the day sped by, we had a final lunch and Fiona left to get our bags. I saw the porter bringing our bags down and the stark reality of leaving such an incredible hotel and city really hit me. We sat down on a bench overlooking the courtyard and Fiona started crying. Even writing about this last day now is bringing tears to my eyes. I have never felt such incredible comfort and ease living in a hotel, the owner and staff literally welcomed us like family. Lhasa city itself is gorgeous, I really loved it there. The last few days were idyllic, I woke up each morning in a beautiful Tibetan-designed room, waltzed downstairs for a yummy breakfast as I contemplated what to do that day. Do I go for a massage, go around the Barkor circuit deciding what to buy, roam around the city experiencing the friendliness and vibrancy? I would invariably find something new to buy and meet some old Tibetan stallkeeper who I would sit and chat with for a while as we swapped life stories. There were 2 old stallkeepers that I actually went back to for quick chats during my last few days there, they were so welcoming and warm, when I caught a cold the old lady was worried for me. The ppl there are beautiful and I was so lucky I was able to communicate with them.
After roaming about, I would go back to the Gorkha for lunch. Have more chats with the cute restaurant manager, it felt like I had to compete with him on who could smile the biggest, he really did have a beautiful smile. What I miss the most though is seeing Karma's face as I walked through the foyer of the hotel, he would have this wide grin, greet me and ask me what I did, what I bought, sit there at the restaurant chatting to me as I ate lunch. On the plane ride out of Lhasa his face would intermittently surface in my mind and I would feel like crying all over again.
So back to our final hour there, after trying to compose ourselves since I had started crying too, we walked out into the foyer and saw Karma waiting there for us. Karma had these white scarves that he placed over our heads to keep us safe on our travels. So much for composing ourselves, I just began crying like a baby. Thinking about it now, it was quite funny how emotional we got. Karma was hugging us good-bye, making us promise to email him so he would know we got to Mongolia safely. I have never cried so much, not even leaving Australia or Japan! I guess knowing that I would probably not be returning anytime soon was a huge contributing factor.
Lhasa is definitely my favourite city of all time. We arrived into Mongolia and it just doesn't feel right. I want to go back to a place that welcomes me. Where I can discover new things about the city each time I go out the door. Where I can return and feel like it's home.
I am grateful that I experienced it though. Tibet is wonderful and I am grateful for all these priceless memories. It's a pity Mongolia was next on the itinerary, there is no way it can compete. We walked into our guesthouse today in Ulaan Bataar and saw our room, it doesn't feel right. The capital of Mongolia itself is a huge disappointment, quite ugly as it tries to westernise, there is no culture here. We embark on a 10 day tour around Mongolia tomorrow, covering the Gobi desert, a volcano, sand dunes and lots of other wonderful sites. I hope it takes my mind off leaving Tibet. We have decided to only stay a few days in the city itself and then head on to Korea. I can't believe what a heavy influence Korea has in this city!
Since leaving Tibet I have begun thinking of returning back home to Australia. I realise how important it is to have friends and family nearby. We have decided to cut our stay in Mongolia short, we are covering the main sites but won't be spending as much time as originally planned. I am looking forward to going back to Japan and completing the pilgrimage and then returning home to Australia and beginning a new life there. Tibet has put things into perspective for me.
4.19pm, Wed Sep 1st, 2004. Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia.
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