Finally back in Japan! I walked out of the plane and just felt like I was finally back home. Sad that the incredible trip ended but really happy that I managed to do so much. It was the craziest, dirtiest, most interesting and tiring trip that I have ever done!! Oh the stories, the memories, all the photos that we took. Would have been a few thousand photos between me and Fi - at least! Not to mention all the videos... we just looked through my Mongolian videos today and nearly expired laughing so hard.
So some brief excerpts from my travel journal on the Mongolian road trip -
Day 1 - Thurs Sep 2, 2004. 8.36pm
I am sitting in the big tent that has been set up, vast plains abound! The sun is setting, the horizon looks awesome. The emptiness is quite mesmerising.
Day 2 - Friday 8.53pm
I am sitting at the Byanzag before a beautiful sunset, the cloud has formed an eagle and it looks as though a flaming eagle is about to set upon a group of gers. We have set camp at an amazing place where Zag trees take a thousand years to grow, almost the only vegetation to grow in this harsh, dry landscape. We went for an hour long camel ride around the Byanzag and also to the ruins where dinosaur bones were found. The camel ride was a lot of fun, mine was a female who seemed to go at a perpetual trot as I bounced up and down, trying to take pictures.
Day 3 - Sat, 7.34pm
In the middle of the Gobi desert. What are the chances that I am sitting here watching rainfall in the far distance? This place is amazing. Rather menacing clouds obscure the sun but the sun's rays are shining valiantly through. This morning we drove to the flaming cliffs, it was peaceful there until I had to pee. We then drove to the National Park called Yollym Am - Vulture's Mouth. We saw a nice meandering stream going through the valley; goats, horses, camels. Had an awful germ-infested lunch at a nomad family's ger - all through the walk I didn't know whether I wanted to puke or go to the toilet!
The driver and our guide, Uyanga are really friendly. I still miss Tibet but I can appreciate Mongolia for what it is.
Day 4 - Sun, 7.52pm
In a bad sandstorm at the moment! It's been an exciting day. We were climbing the Khongor sand dunes, an hour back later and we would have been caught in this sand storm!! The sand dunes were beautiful, climbed 2 peaks, the first of which I was pretty much on my hands and knees bc the slope was so steep! Just bad navigational judgement on my part though that was certainly an experience, wtih sand filling up my boots as I valiantly clawed my way up the steepest part. It was great getting to the peak and seeing all the sand dunes undulating across the horizon. I sat there for a while just taking it all in; the view, the heat, just the experience of sitting on a sand dune at the Gobi Desert.
We were there from 4-6pm and after we drove a little way to pitch our tents amongst the sandy desert. The wind was palpable but obviously not in full force so we were able to pitch both tents and have time left to boil water for afternoon tea. It was as we were sitting in Uyanga's tent that the wind picked up and blew at full force! Kym (the other girl on the trip with us) and I scrambled to zip up the tent flaps whilst simultaneously holding the walls up against the wind. It was a losing battle. Before long we heard Uyanga's voice outside the tent saying, "Come on girls, we're going to a ger." What followed was mad scrambling for our belongings during a severe sand storm that obscured my vision. The winds were so strong I could barely stand upright.
Certainly experienced all 4 seasons today in the desert, even saw a rainbow - the 2nd one on this trip!
Day 5, Mon 4.51pm
Not far out of the sand dunes this morning and our jeep got stuck in a ditch! It took our combined shrubbery-gathering skills and over an hour before we were free of the mud. The poor thousand-year old shrubs...though we had to be freed!
Day 6. Tues, 9.46am
Slept in a hotel last night, no hot water though unfortunately, so a cold hair-wash in a sink.
7.43pm - Here we are at Orkhon Waterfall and Gorge, it was really beautiful when we hiked it, pre-tourist horde. Nice to see water and vegetation again after the desert. In a beautiful ger right now as Uyanga prepares dinner, the days seem to have sped by.
Getting v. tired of sitting in a jeep esp. since I am a lot more wary of the driver, who stroked my hand twice and then told me he loved me. Ugh! How random! All I could think of was, why is it always the old gross ones who find me attractive?
Day 7. Wed, 11.32am
Our jeep is stuck in a river. We've been stuck here for abt an hour, currently awaiting the cavalry who is pulling apart a ger. Water level has been inexplicably rising, esp. in the back, may well be getting the floor wet. It's been an adventurous trip - we've been stuck in mud, caught in a sandstorm and now our jeep is drowning in the driver. At least the scenery is beautiful, sun is shining. We look like refugees w/all our luggage on one side of the riverbank, sitting on our mattresses, waiting for rescue.
9.36pm -
Well after 4 tries by a truck, our jeep was finally pulled out of the river. It was a long 4 hr journey to Tsetserleg though, sitting in the middle along a v.bumpy road was far fr pleasant. Addedto that, a lack of sleep last night. Ugh...long and strange story. Last nite as I was abt to fall asleep, I felt my bed move a few times. In my sleepy state I thought perhaps there was smthg under my bed. I stretched out in my sleepg bag into a more comfortable position when suddenly smthg grabbed my foot! I was freaked out, my first thought being a monster let loose. I surreptitiously reached over to my backpack and grabbed my torch. I realised it was the driver since his bed is at the foot of mine. It was a long and sleepless nite as I fell asleep fitfully whilst holding onto my torch... as a weapon I guess. I also didnt stretch out fully the entire nite lest he reach over and grab me again.
Day 8, Thurs 4.20pm
Just came down from climbing the Khorgo Volcano.
Day 9, Fri 12.06pm
We have left White Lake, it was beautiful there. We stayed in a ger overlooking the lake. Went for a 2hr horse-ride up and down hills. I sat on a gorgeous black horse that was soo lazy! She wouldn't move faster than a trot though later I found it was a good thing since, on our way back, the horse guide forced my lazy horse into a fast canter and I thought my internal organs were going to be jarred out through my mouth!
Driver has been a real dick- been ignoring him the past few days. Last night I built a veritable fortress of my clothes and bags against the bed posts closest to his bed. He has been driving like a maniac across pot-hole filled roads, been short-tempered and basically an ass.
Day 10, Sat 10pm
We drove all day and got back to UB at 4pm. We paid for our tour and told the guesthouse abt the driver's behaviour. They were understandably shocked.
The trip was good, I'm glad I did it bc some of the sights were amazing, def. not the same level of awe as in Tibet but glad it was done. A little tired and run-down right now.
So I'm going to start the pilgrimage next Monday.
I feel like all that has happened during my stay in Japan and on this trip, has led me to this point where I am mentally prepared to do the pilgrimage. I'm aware of how difficult this is going to be but I also have this deep-seated belief that I was meant to do this. I feel that this will be a true test of my character, of my ability to finish what I have started. I need this time alone to just contemplate all I have done and what my next steps will be back home in Australia. What better way to ponder than on your feet, as a pilgrim, walking a path that other pilgrims have followed for a thousand years, pondering the same questions? It's getting late here in Japan, I'm sounding very abstract and probably not making much sense.
To all those who are worried, I will be fine. Whatever is meant to happen, will happen - so there is no point in feeling trepidation for the unknown. I'll see what I can do about finding internet access on the pilgrimage path, if not, will update in abt 5-6 week's time.
Fri 17 Sep, 2004. 12.14am - Kuz's place, Japan.
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